Call it the circle of life. What was once the best address in town, and the haunt of tycoons and celebrities, is today a humble, two-star hostelry, offering a clean, comfortable bed and not much else. But then the fact that the Grande Hotel is even here at all is something of a miracle and a testament to the deep pockets of three hotelier sisters – Vivian, Jessica, and Veronica Lu.
When the Grande Hotel first opened on the Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro in 1941, its art deco design (the work of local civil engineer João Canavarro Nolasco) was an instant hit with the fashionable crowd of the China Coast. Its location, close to what was then the landing point of the steamers from Hong Kong, made it even more popular, and in the post-war years, it appeared in a number of Hong Kong movies.
Its star began to fade in the late 1960s and was eclipsed altogether when the far-showier Hotel Lisboa opened its doors in 1970. The Grande somehow staggered on in the shadows until 1996, when it ceased operations. The owners squabbled over what to do with the building, which fell into serious disrepair and was mothballed for more than a quarter of a century before being purchased by the Lu sisters.
Now, thanks to their investment of 500 million patacas, the hotel lives again, this time offering 96 budget rooms – a canny move in a city where affordable accommodation isn’t always easy to find. The dignitaries and movie stars are gone and the hotel doesn’t even have a restaurant. But its new guests appear to like it that way: the hotel was fully booked on 18 August, its opening night.
Photographer Eduardo Leal paid a visit to the property shortly afterwards. His camera documents a Macao icon slowly, gently, coming back to life.